At PFW, "No Show" Is the New Show
For all the bells and whistles that came with Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton debut on day one of Paris Fashion Week, on the other end of the scale a handful of brands were doing the absolute opposite: stripping things down and taking runways back to basics.
Where Pharrell blurred the lines between entertainment and fashion on the Pont Neuf with gospel choirs, a band, celebrity models and attendees (not to mention a Jay Z performance for dessert), brands like Aries, 032c, adish, and more starred in a low-budget multi-brand street runway show titled "NO SHOW" on June 21.
Featuring eight clothing labels (the aforementioned plus P.A.M., SAINT, FACETASM, Babylon, and Rayon Vert, as well as two accessories brands), the event saw each brand showcase its respective SS24 collections on the streets of Paris, in front of a ticketless crowd.
Not only was the show’s setting stripped of any fanciness and guestlist, behind the scenes things were dialled down too, with labels styled together by a global network of creatives. In short: it was both a celebration of each brand’s respective DNAs, but also the magic of collaborating.
Sure, LV’s Pont Neuf bonanza was perhaps one of the greatest spectacles fashion has ever seen, yet it still poses the question as to whether it was worth it.
If brands like Aries, 032c, and P.A.M. can successfully host collective runways on the streets of Paris on smaller budgets without spending outrageously, can the world of luxury too?
According to a 2019 Vogue report, luxury runways at major fashion weeks can cost anywhere between $125,000 and $300,000. So, surely a “NO SHOW” style runway is perhaps worth exploring?
Still, who am I to judge? I enjoyed Pharrell’s LV debut, don’t get me wrong, but if I had to choose between a Parisian street party and an evening of DJs, or to attend a luxury show followed by vol-au-vents, I know which I’d prefer.
