Patek Philippe’s New Watches Have Divided Collectors. That’s Good
Patek Philippe's newly dropped Cubitus Collection may be one of the most polarizing watch releases of the year. But hear me out—it's also one of the best.
Leaked earlier this month, the Cubitus Collection includes three watches, all featuring a newly designed square geometric case shape, the design choice at the center of today's controversy.
The entry-level watch in the collection, Ref. 5821/1A, comes in stainless steel with a green and olive-green dial. The next step up, Ref. 5821/1AR, includes a two-tone combination of rose gold and steel with a blue dial. Both models are powered by Patek's 26-330 S C caliber.
The flashiest piece in the collection is Ref. 5822P, a platinum timepiece featuring an instantaneous grand date, day, and moon phases and a comfortable fabric strap. The watch comes with the new ultrathin self-winding caliber 240 PS CI J LU movement.
I understand the controversy. Yes, it can be argued that these new watches channel the spirit of Gerald Charles' square cases and some of the design language of the ever-popular Cartier Santos.
Equally, for those hoping for a successor to the recently discontinued and highly coveted Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711A, the Cubitus Collection doesn't scratch that itch. But that's okay.
This watch isn't for the Nautilus crowd. Patek Philippe, one of the finest watchmakers in horology, is aiming to create a new sports watch staple for the next generation of collectors. That excites me.
The watch world moves notoriously slowly, with brands rarely taking risks to engage with collectors.
The last time we saw a new design and collection from Patek Philippe was in 1997 with the Aquanaut—a watch that was equally met with criticism, only to become one of the brand's most beloved lines.
Sure, the 45mm case might feel a bit large for some, but give the Cubitus Collection some time. I'd bet you a 5711 that these watches will become a grail for new fans of the brand looking to add a Patek to their collection in the coming years.
If you can get your hands on one, all three watches are currently available at Patek Phillipe.
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