Last week, 49,000 professional watch nerds descended upon Geneva, Switzerland to attend Watches and Wonders, the world’s largest annual watch trade show. Here, at a gigantic expo center the size of multiple airport hangars, many of the big brands exhibit their new products, aka “novelties” according to the very specific trade show jargon. Over the course of a week, press, retailers, clients — and the public, for three days this year instead of last year's initial two — are invited to “touch and feel” these novelties within the confines of the brand “booths,” which range in size from luxurious walk-in closets (Charriol) to mini mansions (Rolex).
In the way that we can gauge what’s trending in clothing by what’s showing during Fashion Month, we can look at Watches and Wonders as an indicator of what’s hot in this ever-growing industry. So, without further ado: LIVE, FROM SWITZERLAND… IT’S THE HIGHSNOBIETY WATCHES & WONDERS TREND REPORT!
GOODBYE STEALTH WEALTH <3
Surely, by the time Succession ended, everyone became bored of the not-so-stealth “stealth wealth” trend. It really felt like the Loro Piana sweaters were swapped for mob-wife fur and gold faster than you could say “Gstaad Guy.” Regardless of whatever’s currently trending on the TikTok algorithm, it’s safe to say that, within the watch industry at least, maximalism is in. Of course, luxury timepieces have never been quite “stealth” – most people who spot the Rolex jubilee bracelet or the octagonal shape of the Royal Oak can pick up on the fact that the wearer is, to some degree, signifying wealth. But this year’s buzzy releases are definitely loud!
Let’s start with Rolex. The crown’s releases are always the most anticipated of the fair – especially since 2023’s lineup left us with the viral Puzzle Day-Date. This year, there were no emojis on the dials, but we were presented with a big, thicc, yellow-gold Deepsea weighing 320 grams (that’s three-quarters of a pound). When the veil was lifted from this souped-up diver watch, everyone in the press preview’s eyes popped, and there were literal laughs of awe when we got to try it on. I mean, it’s just so heavy!!! And so… gold!!!
This watch is a technological feat, fit for the most advanced divers, with a capacity to travel 12,800 feet under the ocean just like its 2008 predecessor. But whomst is professionally diving with a yellow gold watch (besides Rolex “testimonee” Sylvia Earle, who surely has gold Rolexes to spare)? And why do we need to go that deep?! For reference, the Titanic sits 12,500 feet under the Atlantic. And we all know what happened the last time humans tried to make it down there… Anyway, it seems that the Deepsea, with its bold blue lacquer dial and the matching, gold accented “Cerachrom” dial, is Rolex’s way of pushing its own boundaries. They’re flexing! And whoever will buy this for around $58K is also flexing. There’s nothing stealth about it.
While we’re on the subject of Rolex, let’s also discuss the two shiny new Daytonas. Each is fitted with a diamond bezel and hour markers, along with a “pearlized” (yassified) mother-of-pearl dial – one black, one white – with contrasting white and black mother-of-pearl subdials, recreating the popular Panda and Reverse Panda dials beloved on the more subdued Daytonas. The flash here harkens back to the gem-set pieces of the ‘90s and Y2K era, such as Elton John’s 2001 “Leopard” Daytona, which just fetched $176,400 at auction. Wild, ostentatious pieces like this are officially back in style as the #y2k trend continues to have a chokehold on the popular imagination – and so we’re here for this loud and proud Daytona duo.
Next up is Tudor, Rolex’s little sister. Maybe there’s something in the water up at Rolex HQ in Genève (where Tudors are also made), because its Black Bay 58 has also been turnt up. This classic diver watch style debuted this year in a 39mm 18K yellow gold iteration. For $32,000! Compare that to its steel counterpart, albeit with a slightly different movement, available for $4K. Despite its sheer weight in gold, the price certainly feels like a statement given Tudor’s brand image as Rolex’s more affordable, down-to-earth counterpart. Tudor seems to be saying… live (and spend) más!
Directly across from the Tudor booth sits Chopard, a watchmaker and jeweler, flaunting expertise in both verticals with the new Alpine Eagle 41 XP “Frozen Summit.” Released in a limited edition of 8, I got to see – NOT TOUCH – one in person. There it was, perched on a podium, no museum-grade glass case surrounding it… odd for a $925,000 watch. When prompted to reach for it, surprise! It disappears beneath the podium, sensing my approach. Something straight out of “Mission Impossible” as fellow watch editor and Chopard expert Bilal Khan said. The watch – 18k white gold and entirely iced out in diamonds – and its presentation is totally over the top, putting the “wonders” in Watches and Wonders.
THIN IS IN
Modern watchmaking is all about technology, with brands one-upping each other to see how far they can push horological limits. This was exemplified last week by Bulgari's presentation of the “world’s thinnest watch.” Unveiled off-site at the luxe Wilson Hotel overlooking the shores of Lake Geneva, the Italian luxury house presented its newest Swiss-made Octo Finissimo Ultra, so slight and weightless (constructed mostly of titanium) that the photos simply do it no justice. Clocking in at 1.7mm, this skinny legend is 0.5mm thinner than Richard Mille's RM UP-01 Ferrari, which beat out Bulgari's earlier iteration of the Octo Finissimo Ultra in 2022, just four months after its release. To up the ante, this new Octo Finissimo Ultra is also COSC-certified, which is watch-world speak for the fact that it meets industry standards for timekeeping excellence. She may be the height of an AmEx platinum card, but she’s durable!
Prior to the 2022 release of the initial Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, Piaget held the record for the world’s thinnest watch with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch, which debuted in 2018. This year, the brand presented Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon, which contains the world's thinnest tourbillon, which is a “complication” (anything in a watch’s movement that does more than just tell the time) designed to counteract the effects of gravity. To clarify, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is a “time-only” watch, meaning there’s less going on inside. We’re not diminishing Bulgari’s achievement here, but the fact that Piaget was able to add the tourbillon and maintain its exceedingly thin silhouette is no small feat.
It's thrilling to witness these brands go head-to-head with their innovations in real time, and although we’re still very much in awe of last week’s creations, we can’t help but wonder who will go even SKINNIER! (Richard Mille, your move.)
Lastly, for the sake of balancing the scale, special mention goes out to Vacheron Constantin for introducing a record-setting (records on records!) masterpiece with a lil’ body. The record set here is for the “world’s most complicated watch” (previously held also by Vacheron), which is embodied by Les Cabinoters “Berkley Grand Complication” bespoke pocket-watch, comprising 63 complications and 2,877 components. All of these gizmos, contained in an elegant 18K white gold case, result in a weight of 960 grams – over two pounds!! Compare this to the Bulgari’s 47 grams. The range…
WATCHES AS JEWELRY, JEWELRY AS WATCHES
One of the fab things to come out of the watch world’s post-pandemic popularity spike is more creativity, and certain trends have had real industry impact. As in culture writ large, rigid gender norms are starting to melt away, so much so that many consumer brands have stopped using “women’s” and “men’s” labels altogether. Of course, the coolest watch collectors have never let labels prevent them from any styling decision, such as Tyler, the Creator, who has become a cult-hero in the watch community for his pioneering collection of vintage “ladies” Cartier. Or guys like Bad Bunny rocking ‘90s gem-set Patek Philippe courtside at Lakers games, and The Weeknd, who accessorized last year’s Cannes red carpet tux (was The Idol only last year?!) with a fully diamond-set Piaget Limelight Gala watch.
On the other end of the gender spectrum, we have ladies wearing watches anywhere but the wrist, like Rihanna and her Jacob & Co. tourbillon choker, or Julia Fox literally dripping in upcycled timepieces with a skirt-and-top set by Hodakova. That these moments went viral not just within the confines of WatchTok but in mainstream media indicated that everyone’s “watching”... especially the brands, whose new jewelry-forward releases are timed just right.
First, there’s Piaget, who, in its 150th year, is paying homage to its opulent, golden era of the ‘60s and ‘70s – all stone dials and textured yellow gold. Under the then-direction and leadership of Yves Piaget, these watches captured the glamorous essence of Hollywood and high society and were worn by everyone from Andy Warhol to Jackie Kennedy. Today, younger collectors are rediscovering and romanticizing, scooping up pieces from this era that sit undervalued next to the modern, steel sports watches enjoying mainstream popularity. This niche, online-fueled fervor perhaps trickled up into the Piaget design meetings and resulted in January’s release of its sumptuous Black Tie “Andy Warhol” watch with a malachite stone dial and emerald bezel, February’s re-release of the 1979 integrated gold bracelet Polo watch (equipped with an automatic movement versus the original’s quartz), and its shiny, new releases, including the Hidden Gem cuff watch (lattice weave gold bracelet, opal dial) and three iterations of the Swinging Sautoir watch, designed to be worn on its strap or a necklace.
Vacheron Constantin also shined with its Grand Lady Kalla diamond timepiece, based on the iconic Kalla introduced in 1980, which can be worn as a watch or a necklace. (It’s encased in glass and priced upon request so you know it's rich). For all of its hardcore horological chops (see: the aforementioned record-breaking pocket watch), Vacheron is leaning into its roots by working with haute joaillerie dating back to 1812, and we love to see it. (Fun fact: Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, so it’s older than the United States, lol).
Of course, we must shout-out Jacob & Co., which brought the “watch as a necklace” thing into the spotlight with the viral RihRih moment and exhibited its latest, fully diamond-set watch choker off-site at the Four Seasons. And there were also the haute joaillerie pieces launched by Cartier and Chopard, who never fail to show up in this realm, year after year. I’m still thinking about Chopard’s extravagant diamond and sapphire-set high “Precious Lace” watch and Cartier’s Animal Jewelry watch collection (particularly the diamond croc, whose eyes are little emeralds and whose scales are mother-of-pearl, sapphires, enamel, and diamonds). Cartier also released the low-key hit of Watches and Wonders: the yellow-gold Tank Louis “mini”, resurrected from the 1960s. It’s small but mighty, keeping pace with the teeny-tiny vintage watch trend sweeping the watch world! A nod also goes to Hublot – notorious for its exaggerated, oversized timepieces – for releasing a whole slew of snacc-sized 29mm versions of its Big Bang watch.
It was also thrilling to see Patek Philippe bring back its Golden Ellipse model, which originally debuted in 1968 and has undergone several updates since. What set this year’s Ellipse apart, however, is its presentation on a pink-gold bracelet, evoking the gold chain bracelets that were sold alongside its leather strap until the 1980s. The bracelet, although vintage inspired, is utterly modern in its patented construction, easily sized, and consisting of 360 parts (300 of which are links, assembled by hand). We all know and love Patek Philippe for its Gèrald Genta-designed Nautilus and its notable World Timers (one of which was presented on a denim-inspired strap this year), but this bracelet Ellipse was the one that stole my heart… And it shows that even the folks breathing the rarefied air up at Patek HQ are paying attention to what the kids are into.
