Ann Demeulemeester Is a Perfumer Now, Too
Belgian fashion legend Ann Demeulemeester is releasing her first fragrance, simply titled "A." From the bottle to the juice itself, it's a creation that's as stark as her darkly glamorous designs.
Available online and at select Ann D stores, A was apparently formulated by Demeulemeester herself. "Crafted personally by Ann Demeulemeester through a lifelong instinctive study of notes and associations, the fragrance transmits the poetic purity and structured serenity of the designer's enduring oeuvre," a press release states.
In other words: Instead of collaborating with a seasoned perfumer, the designer took matters into her own hands (or rather, nose).
Fleeting bergamot and lemon give way to a heavier, longer-lasting base of clove, cinnamon, leather, and sandalwood. There are florals, too — namely, jasmine and rose, which comprise the heart of the fragrance.
Even more striking than the scent is the bottle. One side of the lithe, glass column is covered by a black, semi-matte label. The back of the label bears the letter A, visible only when the bottle is turned to the side.
Demeulemeester departed her eponymous label in 2013 and later returned as an advisor in 2021. Since her reentrance, she has expanded beyond apparel, launching her own furniture and homeware collection.
An in-house design team crafted the brand's seasonal collections from 2020 through 2022, when Ludovic de Saint Sernin was appointed creative director. He resigned just six months later, succeeded by Stefano Gallici.
Ann Demeulemeester's first fragrance serves as an elegant reminder that Gallici's debut collection for the brand debuts at Paris Fashion Week in just a few weeks. All eyes — and noses — on the evolving label.