fragment design Brought Quiet Luxury to Streetwear — Now, It Flips the Script
Hiroshi Fujiwara's fragment design is one of those things can only be really appreciated by people far down the streetwear rabbit hole. fragment design isn't even really a brand, per se, as much as it's an idea, a logo, a stamp of approval from Fujiwara himself, a stamp now coveted by centuries-old French fashion house Au Départ.
Of course, given that Fujiwara is largely credited with shaping streetwear as we know it, that stamp goes a long way.
Here, Fujiwara's fragment design remixes the Au Départ Tote N. 55 bag, with typically straightforward touches, to commemorate the French label's new space in Paris.
The leather bag wears Au Départ's historic L'Hexagone pattern, which dates back to the 18th century — Au Départ, which likes to call itself "the first French luxury brand," was founded in 1834, 20 years prior to Louis Vuitton.
All Fujiwara added was a couple painted fragment logo and large white circle. This is both a totemic interruption of that pattern that in turn highlights it and a reference to the paintjobs of automotive cars, of which Fujiwara is famously fond.
It is a simple redesign, yes, but that's also kind of the point (and will not keep the bags from selling out when they launch December 14 in Tokyo and on Au Départ's website and stores come January).
fragment design has partnered on products as disparate as Pokémon-themed Fendi bags, Stanley cups, and red-hot Nike sneakers.
There are fragment design cars, fragment design K-Pop merch, fragment design glass sculptures (also of Pokémon), fragment design laptops, and a nearly $1,000 fragment design lecture course.
Fujiwara's practice is so ubiquitous and typically so uncomplicated — rarely ever more advanced than a fragment lightning bolt logo or branded name — that it's become a bit of trope among longtime observers to goof on perceived "laziness."
I mean, guy could (and has) slap his logo on produce and it wouldn't raise an eyebrow. Well, maybe it would, but not really.
In some ways, the criticism isn't entirely unwarranted: Much of Fujiwara's process appears to simply involve placing a logo on an existing product. But Fujiwara's work is important because it reflects the purest form of streetwear. His logo isn't just a logo, it's a signifier of taste, proof that a creative can, with the right cultural cache under their belt, generate value from a logo in the same way as luxury labels.
As such fragment design, is basically streetwear's first quiet luxury label, in that its logo alone signifies insider-y knowledge only to those who understand.
Little surprise that Fujiwara was the first third-party creative to envision a collaborative collection with Loro Piana.
The fragment design Au Départ Tote N. 55 bag isn't so much a landmark moment in culture as a symbol of Fujiwara's inimitable influence. This isn't quiet luxury coming for streetwear but the exact inverse.