The Most Important Shoes of 2023 Didn't Even All Debut in 2023
2023 was another big year for sneakers, as always. But what really got us thinking was that some of the pairs that occupied every corner of TikTok and IRL weren't even new shoes. In fact, a lot of the year's biggest shoes were timeless classics, recontextualized by fresh perpectives.
Some drops drew insane crowds and even had folks running through NYC (I'm looking at you, Corteiz). Others simply had a good year with flawless colorways and collaborations. And others barely changed at all — it was the culture that shifted, instead.
Side note: can you believe MSCHF's Big Red Boot happened this year? Crazy, right? It seems like it was ages ago that you couldn't escape discussion of those life-sized Astro Boy boots.
So here we are, reflecting on another big year for shoes. And, in hindsight, realizing that most of the year's big shoes weren't even new shoes. What does that say about the state of footwear in 2023?
Maybe we're all better off looking backwards to move forwards.
Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66
Let's face it: the Onitsuka Tiger was everywhere this year, from TikTok unboxing videos to trend-savvy celebrities like Bella Hadid and Hailey Bieber flexing them in street style.
The retro running sneaker first appeared in 1966 and was later worn at the Mexico Olympics in 1968 (hence, the Mexico 66's name). The Mexico 66 was the first shoe to wear Onitsuka Tiger's famous tiger stripes, which would also grace ASICS' sneakers as well (Onitsuka Tiger and ASICS are sister brands owned by the same Japanese parent company).
You may also remember the yellow and black Mexico 66 from Kill Bill, worn by Uma Thurman during her famous final fight scene with Lucy Lui, which helped to make the shoe a certified '00s banger. 20 years later, like so many other Y2K trends, the Mexico 66 is hot again.
The demand for slim, narrow, low-level shoes popped off this year and, especially in light of the adidas Samba's omnipresence, Onitsuka Tiger's Mexico 66 fit the bill. It was the TikTokers' "new Samba."
HOKA Tor Ultra
The HOKA Tor Ultra trail shoe is back and better than ever before. In 2023, HOKA's Tor Ultra celebrated its fifth birthday like it was its fiftieth (translation: it went all out). Immediately popular upon its launch in 2018, HOKA's Vibram-soled, GORE-TEX lined hiking shoe sold out upon first drop and, to this day, barely ever stays in stock for long.
HOKA's chunky masterpiece saw impressive collaborations this year with boutiques as varied as mita, Bodega, _J.L-A.L_ , and BEAMS in both its low and high-top versions, even as in-line iterations rolled out (and sold out) throughout the year. Indeed, HOKA served up excellent general release Tor colorways, including that sizzling "Hot Sauce" collection — a perfect offering for the shoes' status (it's hot).
adidas Gazelle
With adidas Samba still flying off shelves all year long, stylish folks wary of overblown trends searched for a replacement. And so, the adidas Gazelle shined in 2023 as a Samba alternative, right up there with the Campus — and eventually, both became hard to keep in stock, too. Regardless, the shoe had its highlights this year.
At the top of 2023, Gucci re-entered the chat for a second adidas collection, dropping off fresh GG monogrammed takes and rich-colored spins on the Gazelle. And, like the first drop, they were costly.
No worries, though. adidas launched a few Gucci-esque colorways as in-line models, including the "Bliss Pink" and "Bold Orange" Gazelles, which sold out almost instantly. Trust me, I tried to cop a pair. The adidas Gazelle also got a hemp and mushroom treatment, courtesy of longtime adidas partner Sean Wotherspoon (another buzzy drop snatched up quickly). Then, adidas stacked up the sneaker's sole for a Bold iteration that lived up to its name.
Folks wanted a shoe less popular (and no less wearable) than the Samba, but the adidas Gazelle eventually enjoyed the Samba treatment. I get it, though: it's a classic shoe.
Crocs Classic Clog
Crocs objectively upped its game and expanded its universe in 2023 with drops like those insane cowboy boots. But the good ole Crocs Clog remained king.
Amidst people still seeking its regular colorways, the brand shook the internet with its playful Lightning McQueen and Shrek-themed clogs. Even Cars co-star Mater got his own pair.
Crocs also hit the runway with designer Simone Rocha, as the pair presented mother-of-pearl clogs that are high on the Rocha girls' wishlists. Then, Crocs' McDonald's collaboration gave us three Mickey D-influenced foam slip-ons (and the Grimace sandal was a banger). The Classic Clog even inspired collaborations with disparate partners like MSCHF and anime franchises.
All while conventional Crocs Clogs strolled the streets in ever-greater numbers.
It's not a "new" shoe but Crocs' signature slip-on was inarguably everywhere this year, not even including the What can I say? This classic was on a roll in 2023.
Prada Diapason
Prada's Diapason shoes aren't sneakers but have laces, and sneakerheads actually approve of them. So, it's close enough.
Debuted during Prada's Fall/Winter 2023 men's runway show, the Prada Diapason shoe is a quiet serve — a chunky leather dress shoe with a raised rubber edge and lug tread sole. What's not to like? Familiar faces like Odell Beckham Jr., Offset, and K-pop group Enhypen certainly enjoyed them, immediately making the luxury shoe a surprisingly common streetstyle flex, demonstrating the strength of the silhouette's design. On the Highsnobiety Instagram page, there was a surprisingly similar level of enthusiasm.
If you're still not ready to give the Diapason the "sneaker" title yet, let Prada's more sneaker-fied version, the Systeme, persuade you. America's Cup, are you in there?
New Balance 1906
Step aside, 550. 2023 was the year of the New Balance 1906. It even the freshest silhouette in the sneaker company's stable, having debuted back in 2009 before a proper revival over the past few years, but the 1906 stepped over newer models — like the WRPD Runner — and comparably popular styles — like the 2002 — to take the NB crown. This year, at least.
The New Balance 1906 ordinarily presents a classic build of mesh, leather, and plastic layers. In other cases, you'll catch the pairs with deconstructed "Protection Pack" detailing. The aughts-inspired technical sneaker is always quite the beauty, collaboration or not. But the New Balance 1906 collaborations have been good, too.
Classic NB collaborators like like Kith, Up There, and Aimé Leon Dore dropped buzzy takes on the runners in 2023. At the same time, we're still patiently awaiting Salehe Bembury and Action Bronson's colorful 1906 collaborations. Maybe we'll finally catch them next year.
That's great, if so. More New Balance 1906 sneakers is always a good thing.
Salomon XT-6
Salomon makes great shoes including, arguably, its best silhouette, the XT-6. This year, the already-popular XT-6 really made the case that it's the best sneaker in Salomon's lineup, thanks to a host of tasteful schemes, noteworthy partnerships, and a growing, impossible-to-miss popularity. Like, to go Google right now and type in Salomon — the XT-6 is probably one of (if not the) first to pop up.
Let's take a brief trip through the Salomon XT-6's year. There was the atmos collaboration and a couple of END. team-ups ('shroom-inspired pairs included). The XT-6 also linked up with Bone Soda, who gave the shoe a beautiful spin with a nice thick sole. And that's the scratching the collaborative surface.
In between, we got solid general release Salomon XT-6 sneakers, ranging from all-leather makeovers to winterized redesigns, proving what we know: the brand's color palettes are unbeatable.
Nike Zoom Vomero 5
I'll say it: Nike's Zoom Vomero 5 was the Nike shoe of 2023. First released in 2011, the shoe made noise in 2019 again with an A-COLD-WALL* collab and a few nice general release colorways before going relatively quiet. The Vomero then returned at the end of 2022 with the famous "Oatmeal" colorway. But 2023? The retro running shoe, well, hit the ground running.
The Vomero sneaker presents the typical technical build of synthetic materials, including mesh underlays and plastic panels, forming its uniquely semi-chunky shape that's subtly topped with Nike branding. What makes it special is how the Swoosh throws in these sublime colorways, often leaving Vomero fans (me included) thinking, "Time to cop another one."
This year, Nike was generous with its Zoom Vomero 5, released in monochromatic paint jobs, crazy-good Doernbecher ways, and silvery "Photon Dust" colorway fit for Beyoncé's Renaissance dress code. What's crazy is that the Vomero had this huge of a year without another big-name collab. Good stuff.
Even Lou Adler couldn't resist this great shoe.
Fenty x PUMA King Avanti
In case you missed it, Fenty x PUMA was finally back on this year. Kicking off the revived partnership, Rihanna and PUMA offered up a retro football-inspired shoe, the King Avanti.
The sleek King Avanti offered a simple albeit effective design: smooth leather upper, gum sole, and a big foldover tongue. Fenty and PUMA topped it with great colorways, including classic black/white and silver (they both sold out, of course). Fenty x PUMA later introduced two more colorways, green and navy.
When Fenty x PUMA announced their return, fans immediately begged for the Creepers's return (and they got a phat one). But seeing the duo kick things off with the King Avanti was a pleasant surprise, ushering in a new era with a classic PUMA shoe.
