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We’re now six months into Daniel Lee’s tenure at the helm of Burberry and it’s safe to say that the new creative expression he promised for the house has been well and truly expressed.

Following a royal shake-up at the beginning of the year (one that included a new logo, new typeface, and, basically, an new army of brand ambassadors), Lee showed his debut Burberry collection during London Fashion Week Men’s, a presentation that honed in on two of his key focal points: tradition and Britishness.

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Lee’s Burberry bow was, for the most part, well-received and was everything the 37-year-old had promised us: sleek and traditional, yet vibrant and exciting in equal measure.

So for Spring 2024, we should be expecting more of the same, right? Think again. For things have evolved.

While the focus remains on British wardrobe archetypes, cut closer to the body, on British motifs and the British outdoors, things are a lot more expansive this spring.

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Trench coats, car coats, duffle coats, are again joined by blanket capes, quilts, parkas, field, aviator and bomber jackets in a strong and extensive ensemble of outerwear, with leather puffer coats arguably the highlight.

Kilts, tracksuits, and preppy rugby jerseys, are paired with argyle intarsia knits, and, of course, cricket sweaters because, well, what’s more British than a cricket sweater?

When it comes to pattern and color, Burberry has evolved too. A new check makes its debut across a range of pieces, while vibrant prints, jacquards, and knits are worn head to toe, on hoods and bucket hats, tights, bags, and shoes.

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Lee’s Burberry tenure may well still be in its infancy, yet with its Spring 2024 collection it’s clear to see that its new era is well underway — although I get the impression that there’s still plenty more to come.

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