At Coperni SS24, the Ghosts of Garments Left Unworn
Coperni Spring/Summer 2024 gave us nothing! Translucent clothes were the order of the day, garments that barely clothed the wearer at all. It was a masterclass in minimalism, insofar as Coperni's models wore the minimal amount of clothing needed to count as clothing.
Oh, Naomi Campbell also kicked off the show, debuting Coperni's new venture into AI tech.
It was everything but the Bella, really.
Louche tailoring, easy athleisure, and Coperni's debut PUMA sneaker were everywhere at Coperni SS24. Between the more advanced bits, loads of appreciably wearable clothes stormed the runway, styled to make even the most ordinary bits rather extraordinary.
But, this being Coperni, staple stuff had to be amply zhooshed up with considerably more advanced statement pieces, like blouses with sleeves that scraped the floor and tops with sculpted necks from which popped the models' heads like floral bouquets.
Coperni's see-through clothes were the clear stand-out, in terms of sheer visual impact. Loads of semi-invisible shirts, sweaters and blouses floated down the runway, even a couple clever "jackets" that transposed a denim trucker jacket's pockets and placket over the models' otherwise bare chest.
It was an intriguing exploration of apparel left unworn. What if conventional clothes were rendered invisible but didn't entirely disappear?
The ghosts of Coperni garments haunted the runway, but they weren't scary. The vibe was sensual, confident. Not so unusual for Coperni's next-gen bent. In the future, you bear as much or as little skin as you'd like, all that matters is charging your CD player Swipe Bag.
This season, Coperni's main technical focus was a series of technical brooches created in partnership with AI company Humane, headed by former Apple staffers.
I won't pretend to understand exactly what Humane's AI pin actually is — in a press release rich with corpo-speak, Humane said the gizmo is a device that "harnesses the power of AI to enable innovative personal computing experiences." — but this is exactly the kind of bright future attitude towards tech that Coperni has channeled in all of its work, so it all fits.
“To us, the AI Pin is a beacon of the future, aligning with our vision of forward-thinking fashion," Coperni co-founders Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant said in a post-show press release.
Most importantly, though, despite many anxious tweets to the contrary, Bella Hadid did not make her long-awaited runway return for Coperni SS24. Maybe next time!
There was no Bella and there was no big showpiece. Remember, Coperni previously broke the internet by spraying a dress onto Bella's body and modeled handbags atop Boston Dynamics' robot dogs.
Maybe the see-through clothes are Coperni's way of saying, "Hey, nothing to see here — literally."
