Woven Into Denim Tears Latest Collection, a Poignant History Lesson (EXCLUSIVE)
Tremaine Emory, founder of Denim Tears, is not one to make clothing for clothing’s sake. And the brand’s latest collection, The Scorpion & The Frog, can attest to that.
As is often the case with Denim Tears, an important, poignant story is woven into its latest release. The Scorpion & The Frog explores parallels shared by the African American Civil Rights movement in the United States and the Troubles in Northern Ireland — historical events that, though decades apart and separated by almost 4,000 miles, have more in common than one might think.
To draw links between the struggles shared by Black Americans and Irish nationalists and republicans, Emory looked heavily toward The Black and the Green (1983), a short film by documentary filmmaker St. Clair Bourne in which five Black-American activists travel to Belfast during the Troubles.
The themes of this film are explicitly referenced in Emory’s new collection. For example, one of the most recognizable prejudice symbols of 1950s Britain, “No Irish, No Blacks, No Dogs,” is written in Gaelic across the sleeve of a T-shirt alongside the Black Power emblem.
Meanwhile, a duo of T-shirts, titled Free Angela and Free Bernadette, highlight American political activist Angela Davis along with Irish politician and civil rights leader Bernadette Devlin McAliskey. Both served jail terms for their activism.
There are also some collaborations included in the mix. Shin Murayama, a mask masker and soft sculptor, helped create masks inspired by those worn during the Troubles — goggles hand-braided from vintage Ralph Lauren jackets replacing the traditional hollow eyes.
Plus, American-made bomber jackets from the '80s and '90s are deconstructed by Japanese design studio DELICATE UNIT, and Guinness towels are applied. Atop the towels is Nigeria embroidery, a reference to Guinness’s Foreign Extra beer, brewed in Nigeria.
The collection is launching during Paris Fashion Week with a pop-up event at Dover Street Market Paris on January 25 and 26. It will then launch online on January 31 followed by pop-up events in Tokyo (from February 1 to February 2) and Seoul (from February 8 to February 9).
