Every now and then, brands take a step back to do some soul-searching. Whether that means mustering up fresh ways of revisiting their respective heydays or tapping buzzy new talent to spearhead an entire brand overhaul, it can often be a groundbreaking moment.

FILA’s recent appointment of Lev Tanju, the founder of the acclaimed London skatewear brand Palace, is different. It doesn’t fall into either category entirely, but instead perhaps is peppered into a little of both.

Last week, the Italian sportswear label announced the launch of FILA+, a new line that represents the brand’s storied history in sportswear, reimagined through the lens of modern design.

FILA also simultaneously announced that Tanju would be at the creative forefront of the sub-line and that he would play a pivotal role at the brand going forward.

According to the FILA, Tanju’s role will see him have a say in virtually every aspect of FILA+ going forward, including everything from designs and campaigns to, most interestingly, its collaborative strategy.

“FILA+ is my take on what I loved from FILA growing up,” Tanju told Highsnobiety following the announcement. “It’s the same direction I see it taking in the future.” 

The inaugural FILA+ collection, which is expected to hit the shelves in June 2024, is described by the brand as an elevated take on traditional sportswear that will feature a variety of apparel and accessories that combine high-quality materials with sleek, contemporary design.

The brand will draw inspiration from FILA’s archives and present fresh takes on classic silhouettes, with pieces that blend craftsmanship and authenticity suitable for everyday style.

Question is, though: can Tanju make FILA cool again?

Now, that isn’t to say FILA is uncool per se, it’s more just flying under the radar right now. Where other sportswear brands have been leaning into their archives and repurposing designs for the modern day consumer for a number of years now, FILA has, for the most part, been keeping a low profile.

However, with Tanju at the helm of FILA+, there certainly won’t be any low-profiling here.

In Palace, Tanju has created one of the industry’s most disruptive brands in terms of originality and one of the most exciting, too. Expect the unexpected when it comes to Palace.

Whether that means one of its many extensive seasonal collections that comprises everything from everyday wear to dartboards, beer holders, and dog toys, or one of its many (many, many) sought-after collaborative releases, Palace knows its onions.

Although Tanju’s FILA+ plus won’t be entirely original (due to the fact it’s pulled from its archives), it will likely have a Palace-esque tongue-in-cheek twist of sorts. A funny motif perhaps, or a crazy colorway maybe.

But if it is collaborations that FILA is hoping Tanju can bring to the table, they won’t be disappointed.

In recent years, Palace has released collections with the likes of C.P. Company, Calvin Klein, and Crocs, not to mention more left-field and unexpected releases with names like Harrods, Mercedes, and, perhaps most famously, Gucci Vault, a link that featured a $15,000 motorbike.

This knack Tanju has for creating sought-after collaborations is most certainly something he could bring to FILA+ if they so wish, and also an addition that would bring a little pizazz to the brand.

“FILA+ has a different feel,” Tanju added when Highsnobiety asked him what to expect of the brand.

“It’s [FILA] definitely going back to its Italian roots and heritage. Basically, FILA+ is different from everything I think. It’s still FILA, sure, but it’s elevated, it’s not what people are expecting, let me tell you that.”