How the PUMA Mostro Clawed Back Into the Limelight
In a world where sneakers often enjoy only a fleeting moment of fame, the PUMA Mostro made a thunderous return, proving that true icons never truly fade. This isn’t the shoe's first comeback; in 2017, the Mostro briefly resurfaced, but with sneakerheads too caught up in basketball culture and chunky dad shoes, its bold, unconventional design was far ahead of its time. Now, as the Mostro turns 25, with its Y2K-leaning aesthetic and the rising wave of nostalgia, this year the spiky silhouette has cemented itself back into our wardrobes.
First launching in 1999, this unique silhouette—named after the Italian word for “monster”—emerged as an instant disruptor. Its unlikely blend of sleek ‘60s sprinting spikes and relaxed ‘80s surf shoes gave the Mostro a wild, experimental edge. Pop culture embraced it too, with Madonna sporting them throughout her Drowned World Tour, cementing its place in sneaker lore. So how do you honor the heritage of such an iconic shoe when bringing it back? Well, Ben Lamprey, Teamhead Design PUMA Sportstyle Footwear, explains: “We felt like it was such an iconic shoe, so we just took the original Mostro and put more emphasis on the spikes, keeping the design as close to the original as possible.”
Following Ottolinger’s experimental take on the silhouette last October, the Mostro’s made its return official, bursting onto the scene in January. Photographer Chris Maggio ventured into the bustling streets of New York, capturing the reimagined sneaker as it integrated itself into the everyday lives of an eclectic mix of city dwellers. Emerging in refreshed light gray and vibrant yellow colorways, the Mostro proudly showcases its signature spiked sole, breathable mesh upper, metallic PUMA Formstrip, and elastic strap closures. This new version offers the same irreverent charm that originally turned heads decades ago, now enhanced with an upgraded spike that breathes new life into this iconic design.
Lamprey explains, “The vibe of the shoe feels a bit different to a normal sneaker. There’s the Velcro closure, the spiky tooling that’s a bit more abstract. It felt like the right and most brave thing for us to do.” This subtle but meaningful reintroduction led to the elaborate "Welcome to the Amazing Mostro Show" during New York Fashion Week in February, where PUMA transformed Park Avenue Armory into a surreal funfair. The event reestablished the Mostro’s status as a rebellious icon for a new generation.
In the following months, a wave of eye-catching colorways rolled out, including the especially loud ‘Ecstasy’ pack. Anything but subtle, this collection introduced two standout pairs: ‘Pink Delight’ and ‘Ignite Blue.’ True to their names, these sneakers flaunt a monochromatic design that drenches every inch—from the breathable mesh upper down to the iconic spiked sole—in their electrifying shades. More recently, PUMA introduced a wardrobe-essential colorway with the release of the Mostro in two refined, perforated leather styles. Toning down the bold hues of previous collections, this drop opts for a more subdued approach, mixing clean white and black color blocking on the upper, which makes it perfect for everyday wear. Lamprey remarks, “I think it just came at the right time when people have been fed up with classic sneakers. This feels a bit more new, and it feels a bit more directional.”
As the Mostro’s design continues to evolve, Lamprey emphasizes the importance of authenticity: “Once you have a little bit of a framework, you can always find the little nooks and crannies to make it new and exciting. The possibilities have been quite endless.” This approach is not just about aesthetics; it’s about creating a product that resonates with various audiences. “It’s worked across a wide scope of consumers. It’s amazing how versatile it’s become for all these different influencers,” he adds.
Come September, the Mostro stormed the Paris runways, making an appearance in A$AP Rocky’s AWGE collection at the Hotel De Maison. This marked the first reveal of the PUMA x A$AP Rocky Mostro 3D “Red,” an iteration that cranked up the silhouette’s “monster” persona. With a bold red upper, black gradient midsole, and 3D-printed resin spikes wrapping the shoe, the Mostro has never looked fiercer. Another release that solidifies the Mostro’s audacious presence.
Each collaboration on the monstrous silhouette has been carefully selected, whether with SAN SAN GEAR or the Aries Arise version, which replaces the signature Velcro straps with an adjustable toggle at the back. PUMA is committed to elevating the Mostro by partnering with the right people to take the silhouette to the next level. “It gives us way more confidence as a team, and knowing where we want to go gives us a clearer picture of what we want to stand for,” Lamprey asserts.
While the Mostro’s origins blend athletic history with cultural flair, its latest chapter underscores the importance of reinvention in remaining relevant. Initially unveiled to a fashion-forward audience through strategic partnerships and pop-up events in iconic cities like Paris and Tokyo, the journey culminated in a memorable runway moment in New York. Now, the Mostro is stepping into a new era, aiming to captivate a broader audience. This evolution sees the silhouette embraced in cultural hubs like Marseille and Berlin, where it effortlessly integrates with the vibrant lively spirit of the streets it graces. “I feel like we are way more confident as a brand now. We have a much clearer idea of where we want to be and what we want to stand for,” Lamprey reflects.
This comeback is more than just a nod to the past; it’s a reminder that some designs never lose their edge; they just wait for the right moment to strike again. As Lamprey concludes, “I think the Mostro journey is just beginning. We have a lot more partners working on it. Exciting things are coming.”