The Glow Up: Even as a Child, Lucia Pica Kept Beauty Secrets
"There was this thing that I used to do when I was little," says Lucia Pica, reminiscing on the beginnings of her fascination with beauty. Growing up in Naples, the makeup artist — recently tapped to helm Byredo's cosmetics division — would visit her neighbor, whose bathroom housed an arsenal of beauty products.
"I [would] lock myself into the loo and start playing with it. I remember putting a lot of makeup on, thinking that nobody would know. Then I would look at myself in the mirror a little bit, take it all off, then go out and pretend nothing had happened.
"It was this attraction towards this really fun thing — I just thought it was very fun transform myself."
It was this early introduction to the transformative power of makeup that eventually led Pica to enroll in a month-long course at Greasepaint Makeup School in London, later meeting photographers and fellow artists through the institution. A job on a fashion show would become a turning point for Pica's career: it was there that she met the legendary Charlotte Tilbury, who recruited Pica as her first assistant.
After leaving Tilbury's team in 2007 to work freelance, Pica joined Chanel as global creative makeup and color designer, setting a colorful new standard for French-Girl cool. She held the post for six years, stepping down in late 2021 to begin the next chapter of her career: creative image and makeup partner at Byredo.
"Byredo is an incredible brand. [Founder Ben Gorham] is a very smart, creative, interesting, gentle person that I really admire," Pica says when asked about her new role. "When I met him, I understood that we were speaking the same language," she adds, emphasizing Byredo's ability to translate raw emotion into tangible beauty products.
Indeed, Byredo's first collection under Pica — a range of liquid lipsticks — centered on human emotion, harkening to the brand's beginnings in perfume, "a liquid that transforms the mood and feeling of a person." Pica's next project will continue to mine the mood-makeup connection. She can't reveal too much, but she hints that the upcoming release centers on a feeling that has inspired centuries of art: love.
Pica stays mum on the specifics of the drop, but she's an open book when it comes to her favorite products. Here, the makeup maestro shares what's on her bathroom shelf.
First-ever beauty purchase
Lucia Pica: I think I was around maybe nine or 10... I bought this light blue eyeliner. I used to secretly [wear it] to school. I thought I could get away with it because it was the same color as my eyes."
Biggest splurge
LP: I really like the Sisley SPF sunscreen range. In summer, I always buy those.
Drugstore favorite
LP: I really like the Lucas Papaw ointment. It's good to use as a lip balm. Sometimes I use it on the cheekbones or the eyes. It's a salve that works for every kind of irritation and dry skin.
Holy grail
LP: At the moment, I'm obsessed with the Byredo Liquid Vinyl lipstick in Fantôme. It's really multifunctional and it's the one thing that I have in my bag all the time. It just adds that extra texture and shine to anything.
Best under-the-radar beauty brand
LP: I don't know if it's an emerging brand anymore, but I like Vinter's Daughter, their botanical serums. For hair, I use Rahua — it's an organic brand.
Beauty hot tip
LP: Do not use too much foundation. [We need] much less need [than] we think. It's important that you can still see a little bit of skin underneath.
