Forget Dior's New Look — Meet Dior's New Smell
Seven years after its last major update, Miss Dior has a new smell courtesy of Francis Kurkdjian, Dior's perfume creation director.
Miss Dior, one of Christian Dior's most iconic creations, first launched in 1947 shortly after the house introduced the New Look, a romantic silhouette that symbolized optimism in the wake of World War II.
Miss Dior matched the boldness of the New Look's ultra-cinched waist, rounded shoulders, and billowing skirts. A sparkling chypré, it was inspired by Monsieur Dior's sister, Catherine, who was involved in France's wartime resistance efforts. At just 27 years old, Catherine was arrested by the Gestapo and imprisoned for a year. After her release, France awarded her several medals of honor, including the prestigious Croix de Guerre, for her bravery.
Catherine's legacy lives on in Miss Dior, even as it evolves. Over the years, legendary perfumers like Christine Nagel and François Demachy have created new versions of the scent to better reflect the zeitgeist. Despite these changes, Miss Dior has continued to epitomize the daring, non-conformist spirit embraced by young people, generation after generation.
Kurkdjian's new take on Miss Dior does just that. Thoroughly contemporary, the new juice is unapologetically fruity, starring top notes of wild strawberries and peach. At the same time, it pays homage to the original Miss Dior's chypré construction, thanks to jasmine heart notes and a mossy, patchouli base.
"Reinvention is necessary to stay relevant with this determined, young generation," Kurkdjian told Highsnobiety in the wake of Dior's star-studded L.A. pop-up celebrating the new scent. The perfumer goes on to detail how, exactly, he reinvented Miss Dior: "I obviously went for something deeper; I pushed the boundaries and exaggerated the floral and woody aspects to make it bolder and deeper. I wanted to bring fruitiness to the front row for this creation, which helps make it more modern."
Kurkdjian is spot-on. Sweet, fruity gourmands — once considered "unsophisticated" — are now en vogue, bolstered by a new generation unbothered by outdated dictates. As Kurkdjian puts it: "I imagined Miss Dior as a fragrance that would be a summary of its time."