The World's Coolest Brands Are Craving New Balance's Most Normal Shoes
New Balance put an indelible dent in the sneaker landscape in 1982.
By launching its 990 model, the Boston-based brand didn’t only release the first three-figure sports shoe or seriously advance its running footwear technology, it laid the groundwork for the next forty-plus years of New Balance sneakers.
Fast forward to the present day, and there’s a wide-spanning array of sneakers building off the 990’s legacy, known as the New Balance 99x series. And largely thanks to its well-considered collaborative partners, it’s more ubiquitous than ever.
The New Balance 99x line is at the center of New Balance’s stylish sneaker output. Sure, there are more on-trend models or newer, more innovative NB designs, but the 99x line stands resolute against them all, flexing its significance with big-name collaboration after big-name collaboration.
For the real New Balance devotee, there’s a stark difference between every model in the 99x wheelhouse. For the everyman, there’s little to split these elderly running shoes apart.
Certainly, there’s a clear blueprint that defines (almost) every shoe in the series: A big “N” on the medial side, suede overlays atop a mesh base, and a sculpted cushioned midsole. If you close your eyes and think of a New Balance shoe, it’s probably something from the 99x series: These are the quintessential old-school New Balance sneakers.
The New Balance 99x’s time-honored designs not only put them in the category of certified sneaker design classics, but they also make for familiar designs to be toyed with by collaborative partners.
The New Balance 998, for example, a ‘90s running shoe, has most recently been updated with Stone Island’s innovative fabrics and inimitable compass badge. This relatively run-of-the-mill New Balance has been uplifted through Stoney’s military-inspired, weather-resistant Raso Gommato material, invented by brand founder Massimo Osti.
It’s a familiar story: New Balance 99x sneaker gets a facelift from a pioneering fashion brand. In fact, it’s so familiar that, on March 17, the Stone Island collaboration wasn’t the only shoe to fit into this narrative.
COMME des GARÇONS HOMME's New Balance 990v6 also officially debuted on March 17 and they’re set to release on March 20, two days before the Stone Island collaboration.
Decked in either all-black or all-white with CdG branding on the tongue and insole, it’s a decisively pared-back design. But that’s kinda CdG’s whole thing when it comes to sneaker collaborations: The colorways are typically plain, and the focus is put on the shoe which CdG has decided to highlight at that moment. Currently, it’s deciding to join the barrage of brands highlighting New Balance’s 99x series.
This year has also seen the unveiling of Joe Freshgood’s beautifully aged 992, JJJJound’s elegant suede 993, and Kith’s clean blue-hued two-piece drop consisting of a 992 and a 991v2.
Stone Island, Kith, Comme des Garçons, Joe Freshgood’s, JJJJOUND… for any sneaker brand, that’s a heavyweight line-up of collaborators. And these have all come within the first three months of 2025.
Cast your mind back to last year, and there is also AURALEE making wearable art from 990v4s, Loro Piana's quiet luxury dad shoes, or Aimé Leon Dore’s many viral NB collabs (including that beautiful green, vintage sportscar-inspired 993) to add to the list.
Old-school sneaker collectors will tell you there’s always been hype around the 99x models, their many collaborations, and the Made in US or UK renditions. They’re right, however, the difference now is the sheer frequency with which these collaborations are hitting the market.
The New Balance 99x line is home to the most classic, instantly recognized, and, frankly, normal New Balance sneakers. But it’s also where the best New Balance collaborations come from, and there's no shortage of collaborations to choose from.
