Disney Princesses, Family Feuds, and Final Bows: Highlights from PFW
It ain't over 'til it's over, they say – but now it actually is. To properly wrap up last week's first half of our Paris Fashion Week coverage, we shall now reconvene, as promised, to review the second half of the French capital's Spring/Summer 2025 events.
New York, London, and Milan were precursors to what Paris doubled down on: runways abuzz with creative electricity; designers defibrillated from a somber state of exhaustion.
A full return to form? Unsure. But hold up ... Did you hear that? I think it might've been the alarm clock going off on fashion's beauty sleep.
Let's just hope no one hits snooze again.
Fun Was Had, At Last: Our SS25 PFW Review
ABRA
Abraham Ortuño Perez worked for more than a handful of esteemed brands before founding his own, quasi-namesake company. His shoes, apparel, and accessories blend a zeitgeisty sense of humor with a talent for material craftsmanship.
Ann Demeulemeester
After numerous, somewhat scandalous changes of helm, the ever-elusive Ann Demeulemeester label remains loyal, at least, to its dark, romantic aesthetics – veering into an elf-like, though decidedly wearable mysticism this time around.
Balenciaga
To an unnerving remix of Britney Spears' "Gimme More", Demna's models slinked down a narrow runway in face shields, leggings, and the broadest of shoulders. Romeo Beckham kicked off his défilé career in a tight polo, low-waist bleach jeans, and otherworldly sneakers.
CELINE
In what would be the last collection before announcing his departure, Hedi Slimane drew a line beneath his seven years at CELINE with a very 60s collection, complete with tubular A-line mini dresses, headbands, and razor-sharp eyeliner. Is Hedi acutally, finally heading to Chanel? We're all ears. As for CELINE's future, Ralph Lauren alum Michael Rider is to take the reins.
Comme des Garçons
When all else is lost – which, this season, it actually wasn't, to be fair – trust in Rei Kawakubo, if no one else, to really challenge the boundaries of your imagination. Her sculpturally architected CDG garments, against this scarcely designed backdrop, were a magnificent sight to behold.
Coperni
In a fairytale finale to Paris' SS25 shows, Coperni and Disney collaborated on a collection that was equal parts informed by the French couple's passion for innovative design, and the entertainment conglomerate's iconic characters, staged at the latter's Paris theme park. Only a pairing of such magnitude could turn King Kylie into Princess Kylie.
Issey Miyake
Titled 'The Beauty of Paper', these clothes were clearly constructed to resemble the texture and movement of, well, exactly that – sheets of paper. Of course this meant hypnotizing pleats, too.
Junya Watanabe
The Japanese visionary presented an assembly of outfits that appeared constructed of cars, motorsport gear, and spacecraft paraphernalia, made together with Berlin-based Innenraum – an avant-garde design studio specialized in extraterrestrial-looking accessories.
Kiko Kostadinov
There was a certain campy, retro vibe going on at Kiko's this season, something somewhere between the Flintstones and the Jetsons – with bag charms.
McQueen
Seán McGirr's initial efforts as McQueen's new creative director were not the most warmly received or appreciated. This most recent, Irish folklore-inspired feat reinstates elements of fantasy and glamour many felt were missing from his debut at the brand.
Miu Miu
Apart from Willem Defoe closing the show, Miu Miu scored high by delivering on the promise that was to keep the menswear coming, and the cutesy aesthetics ongoing.
Ottolinger
Ottolinger is not and has never been subtle, and yet this last batch of styles felt their most approachable yet, not least due to the fantastic accessories – including big bags and even bigger glasses.
Sacai
Chitose Abe of Sacai belongs to an adored cast of Japanese artisans whose creativity never ceases to impress. These skillfully deconstructed yet effortless-feeling, nautically-themed pieces underscore her ability to move with the times rather than behind them.
Undercover
Drama – capital D! – is what transpired from Undercover's ethereal offering. Models wore bondage dresses, bat sleeves, and Hellraiser headpieces.
Valentino
After a surprise-dropped, overstuffed lookbook earlier this year, we finally got to witness Alessandro Michele's Valentino in motion. Love it or hate it, it is very him. Whether this'll merely (re-)capture former Gucci devotees, or fully reinvent and grow Valentino's customer base, is to be seen.
Vetements
Once again, Guram Gvasalia pokes fun at his brother and Balenciaga creative director Demna by presenting a range of getups that any follower of either will find read as mockingly familiar, sported by the likes of Gigi Hadid, Heidi Klum, and Travis Scott.
Vivienne Westwood
The world is a strange place as is, but has become even stranger without the presence of Dame Vivienne Westwood. Her widower and artistic partner in crime, Andreas Kronthaler, dutifully upkeeps her legacy, nearly two years after her passing, by entertaining and eclectic means.
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto and his ominous array of fabric patchworks, asymmetrical knotting, and shredded lace were as mesmerizing as ever; the perfect wardrobe for what he proposes will be a gloomy girl Spring/Summer 2025. The irony ...
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