Traditional notions of menswear still dominate today’s landscape; think of how quick we are to call a tuxedo a “classic” or “timeless” look for men. But suits and ties — traditionally masculine garments — are now more widely purchased by consumers spanning all gender expressions than ever before. For Generation Z, shopping across gender lines is less about transgression and more about normalizing the option to.

In order to understand how today’s consumers are engaging with “menswear,” and to explore the role that gender labels currently play in fashion, Highsnobiety conducted our first ever “State of Menswear” study. In March 2023, we asked 396 participants about their experiences shopping across gendered categories, and what opportunities and barriers they encounter while doing so.

Here’s what we discovered:

An overwhelming 90 percent of those polled agreed that traditional dress codes are no longer necessary; respondents consider it more important to communicate individuality via clothes than to perform gender. Particularly relevant to the shift in menswear is that 74 percent of male-identifying readers remain up-to-date on both men’s and women’s fashion-related news, with the majority agreeing that gender categories are not as much of a defining factor in selecting a garment as they once were. For people across the gender spectrum, expressing one’s individuality is now the most notable determining factor in making a purchase.

Communicating individuality means prioritizing clothing that best communicates a message. Such clothing is exemplified by designers like Grace Wales Bonner, who juxtaposes gendered garments, pairing Savile Row suits with embellished skirts; while Jonathan Anderson and Emily Adams Bode both apply crafty, conventionally feminine designs to their menswear collections.

Our research shows a consumer that values authenticity of aesthetics above all else. The runway (and the wardrobe) is a site for storytelling and art, and it should reflect more up-to-date, unconventional representations of identity.

However, we also saw a consumer hyper-aware of the intentions of the brands they engage with. When surveyed, 71 percent of respondents said that they can tell when a brand is genuinely invested in fluidity or just co-opting the style. They cited Martine Rose and Wales Bonner as leaders in the gender-fluid fashion space. It’s a sensical choice, given that Rose’s work adroitly explores vintage Jamaican and underground nightlife culture to include less traditional men’s silhouettes through rave-wear. While Wales Bonner crosses African diasporic fashions with her English roots to reconceive what men’s fashion can be, opening men’s shorts silhouettes to airy skirts. Both designers appeal to forward-thinking shoppers with their bold designs: 70 percent of polled respondents expressed excitement about unconventional approaches to masculinity and femininity in fashion.

Our results also indicate that a path toward reassessing these gendered definitions must account for inclusivity of sizes. When surveyed, 68 percent of respondents would rather have inclusive sizing of general releases and collaboration sneakers rather than exclusive sneakers at all. It can feel limiting to be left out of the conversation on the basis of sizing. As culture shifts to think beyond the binary, it’s important to keep consumers informed of the specifics. We also found that lack of information on size and fit of product, for example, act as a significant barrier, concerning 65 percent of women and 57 percent of men surveyed.

Now more than ever, style means standing out within interdependent networks of identity and culture. Clothing is important in its ability to affirm and express — but the current way fashion categorizes “men’s” and “women’s” feels disconnected from how our pioneering audience actually shops. For them and for us, “womenswear” and “menswear” are community-oriented, evolving, living, and responsive categories. The point is not to abolish these categories, but instead to liberate the boundaries and encourage the multitudes — ultimately celebrating what happens when personal style is powered by endless choice.

For a full breakdown of our findings, sign up to our five part newsletter series, State of Menswear.