Fashion Bids Farewell to Thierry Mugler, King of Camp
Manfred Thierry Mugler, founder and longtime creative director of French fashion house Mugler, died on January 23 at age 73.
The news was confirmed by a post on the designer's official Instagram and Twitter, sparking an outpouring of condolences and reverent disbelief.
An arbiter of '80s fashion, Mugler was known for his theatrical designs and extravagant runway shows, spectacles in and of themselves. Sharp tailoring and exaggerated, wide-shouldered silhouettes were the designer's specialties, two hallmarks that helped define '80s power dressing.
Mugler embraced drama and camp — in fact, the quintessential Mugler woman resembled a sort of superhero-meets-dominatrix, a character embodied by the designer's eclectic cast of models including Grace Jones, Traci Lords, and Tippi Hedren.
In 2002, Mugler departed his eponymous house to pursue other creative avenues, including film and photography. Most notably, he worked as Beyoncé's artistic director and designed the costumes for her I Am... world tour in 2009.
In 2019, Mugler came out of retirement to design Kim Kardashian's "wet" Met Gala dress, a look that sparked interest with young consumers — i.e. Gen Z — who began rediscovering the designer's archival creations and boosting demand for vintage Mugler.
In fact, The RealReal reported a 70% surge in resale value for Thierry Mugler pieces by 2022.
The death of Mugler follows the recent passing of several high-profile fashion figures, including André Leon Talley, Gaspard Ulliel, and Nino Cerruti.
"Manfred, I am so honored to have known you and to work within your beautiful world," wrote Casey Cadwallader, Mugler's current creative director. "You changed our perception of beauty, of confidence, of representation and self empowerment."
"Thierry Mugler was a defining force in fashion... he designed for a future where women were in charge and on top," said Tracee Ellis Ross, who modeled for the designer in 1991 and 1992. "I remember him as joyous and beautiful."
"You started as a hero, my deepest inspiration, and the one that showed the world how to be inclusive in every sense throughout your art and genius," Burberry designer Riccardo Tisci wrote.