Timberland Went Full ALD (& It Works)
Timberland isn’t just about boots and workwear. Well, it still is, but it's also more than that, especially in Japan. Last year, the half-century-old brand launched a concept store and exclusive line called Timberland +81 3 in Tokyo, bringing a little preppy sensibility to its signature hard-wearing style.
The new Timberland + 81 3 Spring/Summer 2024 collection, created in collaboration with Tokyo Design Collective (BEAMS SSZ director Tadayuki Kato and BEAMS Men's vet Shinsuke Nakada), only builds on the WASP-meets-streetwear vibe to great effect, even channeling one of Timberland's previous high-style collabs.
The SS24 collection, available only at the Timberland +81 3 store in Tokyo, looks like a 1990s Ralph Lauren editorial but slimmed down for contemporary tatses.
There are long-sleeved rugby polos, windbreakers, denim jackets and shirts, and weathered baseball caps with leather brims that hearken to Timberland’s workwear heritage literally (with logos) and metaphorically (with gentle pre-distressing).
Timberland + 81 3 SS24 utilizes a green and blue palette of with deep purple and yellow accents for flavor, giving the collection a sense of maturity as if it belonged to a country club. The argyle socks and white-soled boat shoes lend themselves to the outdoorsy-chic vibe.
To some degree, it tastes like Timberland’s collabs with Aimé Leon Dore from the past few years, in terms of the retro sportswear clothes and even the classic wood-floored lookbook set.
And, of course, the 3-eyed boat shoes with their inimitable lugged sole. It’s hard to tell if Tokyo Design Collection redesigned the shoe very much but either way, it’s at home here.
If nothing else, the Timberland + 81 3 SS24 collection is just another indication that TDC has a particular eye for updating American classics for a younger Japanese market, like it recently did with Vans.
What's interesting is that while Vans is internationally operated by parent company VF Corp (same owner as the American Timberland company), Timberland Japan is operated by a domestic licensing brand.
In other words, TDC's design chops are so in-demand that they cross international lines. Just goes to show that good taste knows no border.
