The Freedom to Dress Cannot Be Overstated
They may seem unrelated, but conversations about trans rights and personal style are inherently connected.
As the phrase “personal style” implies, our sartorial choices reflect who we are. This is an incredibly empowering sentiment for the nation’s 1.6 million trans and/or nonbinary people, many of whom alter how they dress to more accurately represent their gender identity. Across the board, today’s top tastemakers know to play around with garments regardless of how they’re labeled or divided — and Gen Z, America’s queerest cohort, is leading the charge.
The fashion industry at large has noticed. In the last few years, we’ve seen an emphasis on clothing lines and styled clothing that eschew traditional gender norms. Openly trans models like Hunter Schafer, Hari Nef, and Aaron Rose Philip are posing for esteemed fashion houses. Alex Consani was a major face at NYFW. Representation spans the entertainment industry, too: In the past year alone, musicians Sam Smith and Kim Petras shattered a lavender ceiling with their historic Grammy win, and celebrities like Janelle Monáe and Alex Newell stunned on the Met Gala red carpet (the latter, for the first time). And these are just trans and/or nonbinary celebrities who are out publicly — in all likelihood, even more members of this community are making strides in their own respective safe spaces or are yet to come out.
Crucially, increased visibility for trans people doesn’t guarantee safety under the law. Only 23 states and Washington, DC, have codified explicit nondiscrimination protections on the basis of gender identity. But fair and accurate representation can counteract the transphobic “lies and dehumanization” pushed by anti-LGBTQ+ politicians, says Alex Schmider, the director of transgender representation at GLAAD, the nation’s leading LGBTQ+ advocacy group. In the current political climate, these counter-narratives are more vital than ever.
This year saw a staggering surge in anti-trans legislation nationwide — the worst in recent history, says Andrew A. Ortiz, staff attorney at the Transgender Law Center (TLC), America’s largest trans-led organization. Binaries have grown more rigid in other areas, too. At most fashion weeks, “menswear” and “womenswear” categories still dominate. And even when big-name fashion brands tap trans models for their runway shows, they aren’t necessarily taking steps behind the scenes to empower trans people. To this day, the most powerful creative directors in the fashion world are almost all white, cisgender, and/or male. It’s also a poignant reflection of what's happening politically: As transgender Americans achieve greater visibility and social acceptance in some spheres, a reactionary anti-trans constituent is doubling down on their efforts to exclude them from public life.
At the time of this writing, the American Civil Liberties Union (ACLU) is tracking over 500 anti-LGBTQ+ bills introduced in the 2023 legislative session, up from 278 in 2022. More than 400 of these bills target trans people, as per the Equality Federation; many specifically take aim at the nation’s 300,000 trans youth. In some states, hostile laws have jeopardized their access to gender-affirming healthcare — services deemed safe and medically necessary by virtually every major medical association in the US. Other attacks target trans people’s ability to access gender-affirming healthcare in prison, obtain accurate identification documents, or play on school sports teams that match their gender identity.
It’s no coincidence that we’re seeing simultaneous attacks on other marginalized groups. The politicians targeting trans people are typically the same forces who seek to ban books about race and restrict access to reproductive healthcare. “These fights are inextricably linked,” adds Ortiz, “and they’re tied together in a right-wing agenda to control people.” The impact of this on young people cannot be overstated. These policies and anti-trans attitudes are not only incredibly hurtful but strip an individual's freedom to safely self-express.
Zooming in on the fashion industry alone, there is plenty to be hopeful about. Especially given that some of the industry’s most buzz-worthy innovators are trans and/or nonbinary — from Gogo Graham to Pierre Davis of No Sesso — or vocal advocates and allies like Becca McCharen-Tran of Chromat, LaQuan Smith, Haoran Li of Private Policy, and Aaron Potts.
Ahead of what will likely be another pivotal year in fashion, let’s review some stats from 2023 both specific to the style sphere and beyond.
A note on vocabulary: In this piece, we’re using the terms trans and nonbinary. In accordance with current usage and trusted sources (with particular thanks to the Human Rights Campaign), here’s what we mean:
Transgender, or trans, is a term used by people whose gender identity is different from the sex assigned to them at birth.
Nonbinary is used by those who view their gender identity as more than male or female; the term acknowledges gender as a true spectrum, not one of only two male/female binaries. Nonbinary can also cover identities such as agender, bigender, genderqueer, gender fluid and more.
A nonbinary individual may identify as trans, but not necessarily.
Gender identity refers to one’s innermost concept of self — how individuals perceive themselves and what they call themselves. One’s gender identity can be the same or different from their sex assigned at birth.
Gender expression refers to the external appearance of one’s gender identity, usually expressed through behavior, clothing, body characteristics or voice, and which may or may not conform to socially defined behaviors and characteristics typically associated with being masculine or feminine.
A person’s gender identity and expression are not the same as their sexuality.
Throughout, the data we cite — the data available — will reference publicly out trans and/or nonbinary individuals, and very often include the greater LGBTQ+-identifying community. We acknowledge that there are many other identities and labels used by people in the transgender and/or nonbinary community to describe the personal experience of gender. This research is not meant to be conclusive and any tallies of trans representation are likely non-exhaustive.
Fashion industry September issues with trans celebrities on the cover: 1
In 2023, barely any mainstream fashion magazines in the US featured trans people on their September issue covers. Dylan Mulvaney did cover The Cut, profiled by Brock Colyar. Harris Reed, a queer designer whose demi-couture creations celebrate gender fluidity, did get a nod in Marie Claire’s 2023 Fashion Changemakers, its September cover story. And though it’s not mainstream, per se, one of Highsnobiety’s three September issue cover stars was nonbinary supermodel Grace Valentine who spoke openly about the power of clothing to affirm one’s identity. In their words: “With fashion, there are so many opportunities for expression and exploration that act as gateways for others to follow suit.”
Trans and/or nonbinary celebrities who walked the Met Gala red carpet: 4
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s annual gala is one of the biggest nights in fashion. Of the dozens of A-listers who walked the red carpet this year, only a handful are openly trans and/or nonbinary. We counted at least four: Janelle Monáe, Bella Ramsey, Kim Petras, and Alex Newell.
Trans models who donned Victoria’s Secret angel wings: 4
Victoria’s Secret’s fraught legacy of exclusion is well known. In recent years, however, the lingerie stalwart has taken steps to rectify this. In 2023, at least four openly trans models sported the brand’s iconic angel wings, including Alex Consani, Valentina Sampaio, Emira D’Spain, and up-and-comer Colin Jones.
Unisex/nonbinary fashion shows on the official NYFW schedule: 20
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the group that organizes New York Fashion Week, debuted its gender-inclusive “unisex/nonbinary” event category back in 2018. In September 2023, at least 20 CFDA-sanctioned NYFW showcases received this designation.
Trans and/or nonbinary models who walked in NYFW: 14
At least 14 trans and/or nonbinary models walked the runways at official NYFW events in September. The Blond’s Spring/Summer 2024 showcase was a standout moment for trans representation, with queer design duo David Blond and Phillipe Blond tapping Dylan Mulvaney, Dominique Jackson, and Gigi Gorgeous to model their sequined wares.
Brands led by trans and/or nonbinary designers on the official NYFW schedule: 1
From Michael Kors to Luar Raul Lopez and Gypsy Sport’s Rio Uribe, queer designers were well represented in the CFDA’s official NYFW calendar for September. However, openly trans and/or nonbinary designers were few and far between. It was only in 2019 that NYFW featured its first show by an openly trans designer, No Sesso’s Davis.
Anti-trans bills in the US: 500+ bills introduced in 49 states
“These laws might be theoretical and abstract for some folks, but this is real life for many, many people,” says Ortiz, staff attorney at the Transgender Law Center (TLC). “We can’t let that be forgotten in these discussions.” It’s important to remember that these laws actively impact young people who are just trying to express who they are.
Anti-LGBTQ+ laws passed: 84
Of the 501 anti-LGBTQ+ bills introduced in 2023, 84 have become law so far. These include 34 attacks on inclusive education and access to school sports for trans youth, 26 on gender-affirming healthcare, and four on accurate IDs. Conservative lawmakers in Tennessee and North Dakota have passed the highest number of hateful laws this year (10 each).
Anti-LGBTQ+ laws from 2023 being challenged by the ACLU in court: 14
At the time of writing, ACLU attorneys are challenging 14 anti-LGBTQ+ laws that were passed in 2023, the bulk of which are explicitly anti-trans. Some efforts have already seen wins: In the case of K.C. v. Medical Licensing Board of Indiana, a federal judge agreed to block officials from enforcing Indiana’s newly minted ban on gender-affirming healthcare for minors.
Anti-drag bills introduced: 32
Across the country, states from Arizona to Tennessee have introduced bills to prohibit “adult cabaret performances” that might be in range of children. Behind the bills is discomfort to do with a perceived challenge to traditional gender expression that drag shows purportedly pose.
Anti-LGBTQ+ bills defeated: 216
Although conservative lawmakers introduced transphobic bills in record numbers, nearly half of this legislation (about 44 percent) was shut down before it could become law.
Percentage of out LGBTQ+ elected officials who are trans and/or nonbinary: 8 percent
Between June 2022 and May 2023, a significant number of trans and/or nonbinary politicians won their bids for state and local offices. According to the LGBTQ+ Victory Institute, they now account for 8.1 percent of the nation’s 1,185 LGBTQ+ elected officials, an increase of 24 percent from 2021–2022.
Trans-inclusive films nominated at the Academy Awards: 2
At this year’s Oscars, two films that featured trans characters scored noms in major categories: Night Ride, a Norwegian short about a woman who steals a tram, and Women Talking, a feminist drama based on Miriam Toews’ novel of the same name. The latter took home the Academy Award for Best Adapted Screenplay.
Trans and/or nonbinary artists nominated at the Grammy Awards: 5
2024’s crop of Grammy nominees, announced in November, include nonbinary artists Justin Tranter, Janelle Monáe, and J. Harrison Ghee. And at the 2023 awards, “Unholy” singers Sam Smith and Kim Petras weren’t just nominated for a Grammy. The pair scored Best Pop Duo / Group Performance, making them the first openly nonbinary and/or trans artists, respectively, to win in their category.
Trans and/or nonbinary characters featured on primetime television: 32
According to GLAAD’s research, the 2022–2023 television season featured just 32 transgender characters across all platforms. They account for fewer than 6 percent of the 596 total LGBTQ+ characters on TV — a slim proportion, and a year-over-over decrease of nearly 25 percent. GLAAD has yet to release its findings about the 2023–2024 season.
Trans and/or nonbinary actors who withdrew from Emmys consideration: 1
Yellowjackets breakout star Liv Hewson routinely steals scenes in Showtime’s critically acclaimed drama. But despite being eligible for this year’s Primetime Emmy Awards, the nonbinary actor publicly withdrew themself from consideration because the Television Academy only has gendered acting categories. “I can’t submit myself for this because there’s no space for me,” they told Variety of the statement-making move, which they hope gets Hollywood execs “talking.”
