Like It or Not, VLONE Is Back
Like it or not, VLONE is back. The new owners of the enigmatic, almost inexplicably popular streetwear label are aiming to finally bring it mainstream success but, one has to wonder, is VLONE actually "V" late to the party?
Indeed, the history of VLONE is almost more interesting than the clothes themselves.
Founded in 2011 by A$AP Bari and F. “SO” Hunter, two members of A$AP Mob — a collective that included A$AP Rocky — VLONE became extremely coveted among a base of young streetwear shoppers in shockingly short succession, boosted by co-signs from influential friends like Kanye "Ye" West, Virgil Abloh, and CLOT's Edison Chen, who helped establish VLONE's visual language and sheer ubiquity.
The swift rise peaked in 2017 when VLONE held a runway show during Paris Fashion Week, complete with an ultra-rare Nike collaboration still coveted to this day.
However, A$AP Bari proved nearly as toxic as VLONE was popular. Around the same time as VLONE's fashion show, a video emerged online of Bari reportedly engaging in sexual assault. Nike canceled its plans for wider release of the VLONE sneaker collaboration.
It took several years for Bari to finally plea guilty to the sexual assault charges. Vile as his crimes are, they never really affected VLONE's success.
Instead, the awful stuff that Bari did only seemed to endear the brand's diehards that much more, keeping the label relevant for years to come.
And, perhaps worse, VLONE took until 2022 to finally clarify its stance on Bari.
"We will not partake in any irrational behavior associated or related with Jabari 'Younglord' Shelton," VLONE said in an October 2022 Instagram post. "He has no authority to style himself as 'Mr. Vlone,' use or license VLONE — this behavior is contrary to our collective."
VLONE's clothing isn't itself terribly distinct — its oeuvre typically comprises T-shirts and hoodies branded with a big, stencil-like orange "V" — but it maintains a presence similar to Anti Social Social Club insofar as it remains desirable among true believers, whether or not it's relevant within the industry at large.
Not that the industry is ignoring the brand: In recent years, VLONE has issued collaborations with fashion labels like Palm Angels and NEIGHBORHOOD and musicians like The Weeknd, Kodak Black, and the estate of Juice WRLD, even prior to removing Bari from its team.
Indeed, enough people were buying VLONE in 2022 to make it one of the year's most-resold clothing brands.
Either way, it's hard to say that the brand's jaded fanbase, some of whom have followed Bari to his ENDLESSDENIM brand, will actually be into VLONE's 2023 relaunch, which goes live on VLONE's new website April 21.
The new collection comprises just over two dozen individual items, mostly pretty typical VLONE fare like faded hoodies and sweatpants, but there's also some one-off bits like a work vest that riffs on Carhartt and pre-distressed, painted jeans.
The folks behind VLONE 2.0 presumably intend for "Brick by Brick," the title of the new drop, to reference the sentiment of building back up after starting over, but it's also physically manifested in the transparent brick that VLONE's dropping as part of its relaunch.
It worked for Supreme (or did it?).
The STFO ("Sold The Fuck Out") Brick is either the pinnacle or nadir of new VLONE — you decide.
Its fate is a reflection of the brand's relaunch, a so-called collector's piece destined to either be a long-term investment or a streetwear oddity. Personally, my money is on the latter.