Under The Radar: William Ellery
Peel back the layers of William Ellery, and you’ll find a man named Trevor Davis.
The Brooklyn-based artisan integrates memories and emotions into the things that he makes, producing detail-rich expedition gear inspired by personal experiences. With a product lineup that includes all-season hiking socks, beachcomber bags, and textural headgear, Davis has developed William Ellery into a fully-fledged exploration outfitter.
Named for his great-grandfather, Davis’ brand has “no timeline.” Each product is released only when it satisfies Davis’ creative vision, developed in a thoughtful process that involves real-world research. William Ellery’s shimmering June Bug collection is informed by a study he and his peers conducted on the green June beetle’s iridescent carapace, for instance, and its Woolly fleeces adopt the warming properties of the hairy tiger moth, also known as the “woolly bear.” Davis periodically releases research catalogs under William Ellery’s “Scientific Research” imprint to further contextualize his references — like his rock-solid clothes, these frequently sell out.
Fueled by close-to-home production, William Ellery’s practice often involves breathing new life into deadstock fabric and vintage clothes, transforming 1950s nylon coveralls into headgear and aged Boy Scout tarps and tents into shoulder bags. It’s made with care too: William Ellery “makes things in the US unless there’s a really good reason not to,” Davis says. The provenance of the found materials plays a big part in the identity of the resulting garments with character added through the imperfections or, as Davis likes to call them, “scars and marks from labor and love.”
Davis’ products tell a story: they may be reworked with modern influence but they have a vintage soul. This contrast is reflected in the William Ellery studio in East Williamsburg, a brightly lit, cozy space filled with work stations, sample garments, and vibrantly colored fabric. There, I spoke with Davis about his brand’s past, present, and future, breaking down what it means to create expedition gear here in New York City.
WESLEY BREED: Can the fashion industry benefit from taking a more outdoorsy approach to garment design and positioning?
TREVOR DAVIS: I don't know if outdoorsy is the right method. It's more about creating something timeless rather than something that's tied down to a certain intention.
WB: Why is designing and producing in New York so important? Does your location inspire what you put out?
TD: For us, producing in New York is just a byproduct of being surrounded by a number of really talented artisans and makers. We make things in the US unless there's a really good reason not to – a good example of that is when we did a down jacket in Japan with Nanga. They're the best down jacket maker, so it made sense to produce with them.
WB: What does the name William Ellery mean to the brand?
TD: It's a family name that, to me, has an important sentiment attached to it. It’s like when you come across a bag that has a crossed-out name on the tag, replaced by that of its new owner. There’s a special feeling in that used garment.
WB: What was the initial vision you had for William Ellery?
TD: William Ellery will be three [years old] in October. I started it as a side project when I was working for an artist. Originally, it was a reflection of my angst to get out of the city at that time, but it's become something more refined and encapsulating. I can see William Ellery producing furniture, couches, bedding in the future – we can create an entire world that follows the narrative that we've just barely tapped into.
WB: Correct me if I'm wrong, but you guys started out with socks back in the day.
TD: Yeah, socks are still a huge thing for us. I've found that people have strong opinions on socks. Whether you like them tall or short, tight or loose, whatever. If you go into a sporting goods store and look at wool socks, they’re all digital and masculine – It's like whoever designed the Nerf guns of my childhood is designing socks now. They're so weird and technical, so I wanted to make something that was really approachable and sweet.
WB: What sets you guys apart from other brands that may be doing something similar?
TD: I think that a lot of outdoor companies are specific to trail [or produce singular products like] a water bottle. I see us more as expedition gear that is a little bit more encompassing.
WB: What does the one-of-one process look like for William Ellery?
TD: With one-of-a-kind garments, there's a love affair that happens. A really good piece of advice I got one time was to make something for somebody's birthday and then not give it to them. Instead, make them another one, because you can only replicate that love one time.
WB: Are there any challenges that William Ellery is currently facing?
TD: For us, producing things is a very time-consuming process. It’s hard for William Ellery, especially when we use non-deadstock materials, to convince our manufacturers to make things that may be difficult, because lots of companies adopt a “This is good enough” attitude in areas that we don’t. We will always continue until it’s the right thing.
